Structure & Ornament: Studio Jewelry 1900 to the Present, Curated by Mark McDonald, 12 February 2020 < Auctions

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100 Giampaolo Babetto

ring

$3,000–5,000

result: $3,250

101 Giampaolo Babetto

necklace

$20,000–30,000

102 Giampaolo Babetto

brooch

$10,000–15,000

result: $10,625

103 Giampaolo Babetto

brooch

$10,000–15,000

104 Giampaolo Babetto

brooch

$10,000–15,000

105 Ronald Hayes Pearson

necklace

$1,000–1,500

result: $1,625

106 Stuart Devlin

brooch

$3,000–4,000

107 Bent Exner

kinetic ring

$1,000–1,500

result: $1,750

108 Ernest Blyth

pair of earrings

$1,000–1,500

result: $875

109 Ernest Blyth

bracelet

$3,000–5,000

result: $7,500

110 Margaret De Patta

brooch and pair of earrings

$4,000–6,000

result: $7,500

111 Margaret De Patta

brooch, model no. 10 (Running Ghost)

$2,000–3,000

112 Margaret De Patta

brooch, model no. 4

$2,000–3,000

113 Margaret De Patta

brooch, model no. 6

$4,000–6,000

result: $10,000

114 Margaret De Patta

unique brooch

$2,500–3,500

result: $4,688

115 Margaret De Patta

earrings, model no. 34

$1,000–1,500

result: $1,125

116 Josef Hoffmann

hair comb

$20,000–30,000

result: $47,500

My initial exposure to the cool, elegant work of Eva Eisler was at the Brooklyn Museum in 2009. A small group of complementary jewelry from the museum’s collection was displayed with the exhibition From the Village to Vogue: The Modernist Jewelry of Art Smith. The perfect balance and exacting technical execution of her brooch from 1988 in silver spoke to my strong sense of order. M A R K M C D O N A L D

117 Eva Eisler

brooch

$3,000–5,000

result: $3,000

118 Eva Eisler

brooch

$4,000–6,000

119 Eva Eisler

brooch from the Tension Series

$4,000–6,000

120 Ettore Sottsass

ES1 ring

$2,000–3,000

result: $2,125

121 Hans Richter

brooch

$4,000–6,000

result: $4,375

122 Albert Paley

brooch

$25,000–35,000

result: $27,500

123 Albert Paley

interlocking ring

$9,000–12,000

result: $10,000

124 Phillip Fike

fibula

$2,000–3,000

result: $4,063

125 Lisa Gralnick

Magnolia ring

$3,500–4,500

result: $3,750

126 Lisa Gralnick

bracelet

$2,000–3,000

result: $3,750

127 Lisa Gralnick

brooch

$4,000–5,000

result: $5,000

128 Lisa Gralnick

brooch

$3,000–5,000

129 Lisa Gralnick

brooch

$4,500–5,500

result: $5,000

130 Claire Falkenstein

pair of earrings

$1,000–1,500

131 Claire Falkenstein

brooch

$2,500–3,500

result: $2,750

132 Claire Falkenstein

necklace

$4,000–6,000

result: $4,375

One month after Claire’s death in 1997, her studio assistant and personal confidant, Stefan, invited me to her home and studio in Venice, California to look in “Claire’s Box”. This amazing trove, her personal collection, formed the foundation of the brilliant exhibition of her jewelry at the Long Beach Museum of Art in 2004. When the exhibition closed, I was asked by her estate to find collectors and institutions to acquire these rare masterworks. Lot 135 was included in that exhibition. M A R K M C D O N A L D

133 Claire Falkenstein

brooch

$2,500–3,500

result: $2,750

134 Claire Falkenstein

brooch

$1,500–2,000

135 Claire Falkenstein

belt buckle

$4,500–5,500

result: $5,000

136 Cécile zu Hohenlohe

double ring

$15,000–20,000

137 Elsa Freund

necklace

$1,500–2,000

result: $3,000

138 Elsa Freund

necklace

$1,000–1,500

result: $1,063

139 Mary Schimpff Webb

ring

$1,000–1,500

result: $1,500

140 Astrid Fog

bracelet, model no. 221

$3,000–5,000

141 Sergey Jivetin

brooch from Time Structures series

$4,500–5,500

142 Jantje Fleischhut

Brooch b.619

$2,000–3,000

result: $2,250

143 Jean Claude Champagnat

brooch

$2,000–3,000

result: $3,000

144 Bettina Speckner

Night is Quiet Sea brooch

$2,500–3,500

result: $4,063

145 Helen Britton

brooch

$4,000–5,000

146 Giovanni Sicuro

bracelet

$4,000–6,000

result: $6,250

147 William Harper

necklace

$10,000–15,000

result: $11,875

148 William Harper

Saint Agatha pendant

$8,000–10,000

result: $8,125

149 William Harper

Jealousy brooch from The Seven Deadly Sins

$10,000–12,000

result: $11,250

I met Irena Brynner in our original search for material for the first Fifty/50 exhibition in 1984 and acquired a number of excellent pieces from her personal collection including lot 151. She was a fascinating and rather glamorous character in the process of re-inventing herself as a cabaret singer, performing traditional Eastern European folksongs in a Greenwich Village piano café. M A R K M C D O N A L D

150 Irena Brynner

ring

$700–900

result: $1,375

151 Irena Brynner

brooch

$700–900

result: $688

152 Peter Chang

bracelet

$20,000–30,000

result: $20,800

153 Peter Chang

brooch

$7,000–9,000

result: $9,100

154 Peter Chang

brooch

$7,000–9,000

155 Bruno Martinazzi

Goldfinger bracelet

$15,000–20,000

result: $37,500

156 Eleanor Moty

Talus brooch

$5,000–7,000

result: $5,000

157 Eleanor Moty

Phantom Shadow brooch

$5,000–7,000

158 Sam Kramer

brooch

$3,000–5,000

result: $3,125

159 Sam Kramer

brooch

$2,000–3,000

result: $2,000

160 Sam Kramer

brooch

$1,000–1,500

161 Sam Kramer

pair of earrings

$1,500–2,000

162 Rachel Gera

necklace

$3,000–4,000

result: $4,160

163 Robert Lee Morris

choker

$5,000–7,000

164 Robert Lee Morris

Percussion bracelet

$3,500–4,500

165 Giò Pomodoro

necklace

$1,500–2,000

result: $2,125

166 Arnaldo Pomodoro

bracelet

$15,000–20,000

result: $43,750

167 Betty Cooke

kinetic brooch

$700–900

result: $938

169 Alexandre Noll

pendant

$2,000–3,000

result: $2,048

170 Alexandre Noll

pendant (Croix)

$3,000–5,000

171 Alexandre Noll

pendant

$2,000–3,000

172 José de Rivera

brooch

$3,000–5,000

result: $3,000

173 Arline Fisch

early brooch

$1,000–1,500

result: $1,063

174 Arline Fisch

early necklace

$2,000–3,000

result: $2,375

175 Paul Lobel

brooch

$1,000–1,500

Paul Lobel, illustrator, industrial designer, and Greenwich Village jeweler, thought “there was too much trash in costume jewelry of the 1940s.” His abstract style was based on simple recognizable forms created with flat silver shapes and wire. I feel like he was the bridge between the two-dimensional jewelry prominent in the Art Deco 1930s and the freeform, biomorphic, three-dimensional sculptural work to emerge from the Village after WWII. M A R K M C D O N A L D

176 Paul Lobel

necklace

$1,500–2,000

177 Ibram Lassaw

Untitled (Pendant)

$1,500–2,000

result: $1,250

178 Ibram Lassaw

Untitled (Pendant)

$1,500–2,000

179 Ibram Lassaw

Untitled (Pendant)

$3,000–5,000

180 Ibram Lassaw

Untitled (Pendant)

$2,500–3,500

181 Art Smith

kinetic earrings

$1,500–2,000

182 Art Smith

Half and Half necklace

$4,000–6,000

result: $8,450

183 Art Smith

necklace

$3,000–5,000

result: $8,750

184 Art Smith

necklace

$3,000–5,000

result: $3,500

185 Art Smith

Six Sides cuff

$2,000–3,000

result: $5,625

186 Art Smith

brooch

$1,000–1,500

187 Art Smith

necklace

$3,000–5,000

result: $4,063

188 Art Smith

Insect cufflinks

$1,000–1,500

189 Art Smith

ring

$1,500–2,000

result: $1,950

190 Art Smith

Cover Girl choker

$3,000–5,000

result: $6,250

191 Otto Künzli

Gold Makes You Blind bracelet

$2,000–3,000

result: $2,125

192 Rolph Scarlett

pendant

$10,000–15,000

result: $10,000

193 Rolph Scarlett

pendant

$10,000–15,000

194 John Prip

Crab brooch

$500–700

result: $2,250

195 Christian Schmidt

necklace

$3,000–5,000

result: $3,750

196 Harry Bertoia

hair pin

$2,000–3,000

result: $3,250

197 Harry Bertoia

brooch

$5,000–7,000

result: $5,000

198 Ruth Roach

bracelet

$2,000–3,000

199 Bob Winston

brooch

$2,000–3,000

200 Gijs Bakker

Pforzheim 1780 necklace

$1,500–2,000

result: $1,375

201 Earl Pardon

bracelet with reversible elements

$4,000–6,000

result: $6,250

202 Earl Pardon

brooch

$2,500–3,500

203 Earl Pardon

bracelet

$4,000–6,000

result: $6,875

I met Earl in 1983 in our initial outreach to excavate jewelry for the original Structure and Ornament at Fifty/50. We credit that fateful visit, the day we secured twenty great archival pieces from Earl and his wife’s personal collection, as the true beginning of our endeavor. The thrill of this early discovery and the lasting relationship we developed with Earl stand out as seminal in my early memory. M A R K M C D O N A L D

204 Earl Pardon

necklace

$3,000–5,000

result: $3,000

205 Giorgio Vigna

necklace

$10,000–15,000

result: $10,000

206 Wendy Ramshaw

ringset

$2,000–3,000

207 Wendy Ramshaw

ring

$1,000–1,500

result: $2,375

208 Wendy Ramshaw

Orbit necklace

$7,000–9,000

result: $7,500

209 Ed Wiener

bracelet

$1,000–1,500

result: $1,820

210 Ed Wiener

Dancer brooch

$1,000–1,500

result: $1,625

211 Ed Wiener

brooch

$2,000–3,000

212 Ed Wiener

bracelet

$1,000–1,500

result: $1,750

213 Ed Wiener

necklace

$3,000–5,000

result: $3,750

214 Hermann Jünger

necklace from Schmuckkasten Series

$8,000–10,000

result: $12,500

215 Karl Fritsch

ring

$3,000–5,000

216 Karl Fritsch

ring

$2,500–3,500

result: $2,000

217 Karl Fritsch

ring

$5,000–7,000

result: $5,000

218 Donald Friedlich

brooch from Pattern series

$1,500–2,000

result: $1,500

219 Peter Hoogeboom

Oak necklace

$6,000–8,000

result: $6,250

220 Annamaria Zanella

Penelope brooch

$10,000–15,000

221 Terhi Tolvanen

Mossy Branch necklace

$7,000–9,000

222 Beatrice Wood

brooch

$1,000–1,500

result: $1,250

223 Iris Eichenberg

Weiss brooch

$1,500–1,800

224 Petra Zimmermann

bracelet

$8,000–10,000

225 Petra Zimmermann

ring

$3,000–5,000

226 Gerd Rothmann

Four Finger bracelet

$10,000–15,000

227 Gerd Rothmann

Homage to Calder pair of earrings

$3,000–5,000

result: $10,625

228 John Paul Miller

Scorpion necklace

$20,000–30,000

result: $30,000

231 Carolyn Kriegman

necklace

$1,500–2,000

result: $2,750

232 John Iversen

brooch

$3,500–4,500

233 Jamie Bennett

brooch

$4,000–6,000

234 Robert Baines

Leopard pendant

$8,000–10,000

235 Armand Winfield

brooch

$1,000–1,200

236 Armand Winfield

brooch

$1,800–2,200

237 Armand Winfield

brooch

$600–800

result: $640

238 June Schwarcz

bracelet

$2,000–3,000

result: $2,250

239 Daniel Kruger

necklace

$5,000–7,000

result: $6,250

240

collection of six books on contemporary jewelry

$300–500

result: $250

241

collection of four monographs on contemporary jewelry designers

$200–300

result: $125

242

collection of eight books on modern jewelry

$400–600

result: $375

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Auction / 12 February 2020

Structure & Ornament
Studio Jewelry: 1900 to the Present
Curated by Mark McDonald